The Amalfi Coast
The first time I visited Italy was in 2009, and the last line I wrote in my travel journal on that trip was “Italy, I’ll be back.” I loved the food, the weather, the history, and the people. When my friend Lauren asked me to join her in Italy, it was an easy YES. Rome was our first destination, but due to travel plans, we had to be in and out of the capital city in under 12 hours. All we had time for was sleeping and a power walk to the coliseum. (Don’t worry, I’ll return to Rome again.)
The ItaliaRail system was a really smooth way to travel from Rome to Salerno, from booking to riding. Salerno was chosen as the starting point because it is a gateway into the Amalfi Coast. We were able to book tickets online, before we arrived in Italy, although it’s easy to do so at the train station as well. I got an email with my ticket, which allowed me to avoid any lines, and I knew exactly what seat I was assigned. The train was very clean and had charging ports at every seat.
There aren’t many easy ways to get to the Amalfi Coast. The options are bus, private car, ferry or to drive yourself. The private driver can be cost prohibitive unless you have a large group, and I don’t have the nerves to drive in Italy. We decided to take a bus from Salerno to Atrani, and we were able to purchase the tickets inside the Salerno train station. The bus departed every hour from right outside of the train station.
Thankfully, we jumped on the bus quickly and got a seat, as the bus got very full and ended up as standing room only. It got very warm on the bus, and people were bumping and pushing one another due to the lack of room. While the views were gorgeous, the steep cliffs, blind hairpin turns, and sections narrow enough to be a one way street, made for a harrowing journey. I certainly felt nervous and carsick multiple times.
Atrani was a quaint gem in the Amalfi Coast, situated right next to the larger town of Amalfi. An impressive feat, they had built a large pedestrian tunnel to connect Atrani to Amalfi while keeping people off of the dangerous roads. The town itself was full of pastel colored buildings, maze-like alleyways and endless stairs.
I don’t know that I’ve ever seen somewhere quite like the Amalfi Coast, with towns scattered along the rocky coastline. The water was a shade of blue that I have never seen before; a deep, rich, sapphire tone. Pictures don’t do it justice.
The perfect way to enjoy these dynamic coastlines was to go out on a boat, so we were able to rent one. Our friend, Giulia, and her friends came as well, and one of them volunteered to be our captain. The boat afforded us to see other towns such as Positano, and get close to the cliffs and caves that sculpted the coastline. I highly recommend seeing the coastline this way, whether renting a boat yourself or taking a charter boat.
Just like in Croatia, Lauren somehow persuaded me to jump off one of these cliffs with her. Peer pressure at its finest. Talk about living outside of your comfort zone.
While in the area, we ate all of the bruschetta, caprese salad, pizza and tiramisu... because When in Rome Amalfi…
We learned that there were ferries that ran from Amalfi to Salerno and only took 30 minutes total. The cost was €8 per ticket, only €4 more than the bus and so much more comfortable. There was a nice breeze, plenty of space, no stopovers, and no sharp curves. You live and you learn.
Once back in Salerno, there was only a 10 minute walk from the port to the train station, where we were easily able to purchase train tickets to Naples.
My time in Naples was very brief, but I really enjoyed the street food tour we went on. Naples is the home of pizza, and many other delicious Italian street food options.
It was a quick trip to Italy, filled with beautiful sights, delicious food and the amazing company. I enjoyed every place we visited but the undeniable highlight of this trip to Italy was the Amalfi Coast.
